What Italy gave me

A solo journey through discovery, independence and self-trust.

A moment in Positano, surrounded by the beauty of the Amalfi Coast.

POSITANO, Italy — The ferry pulled away from Naples, and I found myself looking back at a city I wasn’t quite ready to leave. I had eaten my way through its streets and met people who made my time there special.

But as the boat made its way along the coast toward Positano, my attention shifted.

First, the dramatic cliffs came into view. Then the colorful buildings, stacked one above another along the mountainside, seemingly spilling toward the water. The deep blue Mediterranean stretched behind the town, and the coastline seemed almost too beautiful to be real.

I had seen the photographs, but seeing Positano emerge from the water was something else entirely.

I was about to spend five days here.

By the time I reached my bed-and-breakfast, I knew I was in for something special. The walk from the ferry dock was no small undertaking. With two backpacks, a jacket and a hat, I navigated a maze of stairs and winding pathways, occasionally wondering whether I was even headed in the right direction. Nearly 45 minutes later, I finally reached the reception.

It was worth every step.

My room was even more beautiful than the photographs had suggested. It had a separate bedroom and living room, a kitchen area and, best of all, a private terrace overlooking the sea. I could open the doors, let the sunshine and sea breeze in, and sit there looking out at the water, the sky and the buildings climbing the hillsides.

This would be my little corner of Positano. It was everything I could have wanted.

After freshening up, I headed out for my first lunch at Da Vincenzo. I ordered a traditional seafood pasta and a glass of red wine, taking in the coastline from an outdoor table. Cars, scooters and even school buses squeezed along the narrow street beside the restaurant, while diners enjoyed their meals just feet away.

It was a beautiful introduction to Positano.

Scenes from my birthday journey to the Amalfi Coast.

I spent the afternoon walking through town and stopping for photographs. A stranger noticed me taking pictures and offered to take one of me. I gladly accepted. That photograph would become my favorite from the entire trip.

By evening, I was back on my terrace with a bottle of local red wine, watching the sun settle over the coastline. I was perfectly content sitting there, enjoying my first full night in Positano.

The following morning, I woke before 6 to catch the sunrise. I took an apple and a bottle of water down to the shared outdoor landing at my B&B and watched the sun come up over the Mediterranean. I had an early departure ahead of me, but there was no reason not to enjoy the quiet before the day began.

I was headed to Sorrento for a small-group boat tour to Capri.

The drive along the winding coastal roads took about 30 minutes. There were 12 of us on the boat, including another solo traveler, and the mood was relaxed. The weather couldn’t have been better.

Before long, Capri appeared in the distance.

We began making our way around its coastline, taking in the towering cliffs, unusual rock formations and caves carved into the shoreline.

There was one place I was especially eager to see: the Blue Grotto.

Unfortunately, it was closed.

The water was too choppy for the small rowboats that take visitors through its low entrance. I was disappointed.

We continued around the coast, passing the Heart-Shaped Cave and the Green Grotto, where the water took on a striking green color.

We docked shortly before 11 a.m. A few of us shared a taxi to Anacapri, where we planned to ride the chairlift to Monte Solaro, the island’s highest point. The chairlift carried us above the landscape, opening up sweeping views of the island and the Mediterranean.

After coming back down, the group split up. I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring with Shane, a Wisconsin native and Green Bay Packers fan who was traveling through Europe.

As we walked, I asked Shane whether he was an investor. He was, and it turned out he had quite a story. He was self-taught, having developed an interest in the stock market through his passion for computers and gaming. Building his own gaming PC introduced him to NVIDIA, and that discovery eventually led to an investment that paid off handsomely.

But my favorite moment of the afternoon had nothing to do with scenery or sightseeing.

It was the water.

I hadn’t packed a swimsuit or a towel. After the cold, windy ferry ride from Naples to Positano, swimming hadn’t seemed particularly appealing.

But Capri was beautiful that day. The sun was out, the water was calling, and I realized I might not get another opportunity.

So I went in.

Not once. Three times.

I wasn’t dressed for it. I didn’t have a towel. I stripped down to my thermal pants and took the plunge.

There was one other stop I wanted to make before leaving the island. Antso, the young man I had met in Naples, had told me his father worked at Al Capri, a pizzeria on the island. I wanted to stop by, show his father a photograph of Antso and tell him what a wonderful son he had. Unfortunately, his father wasn’t working that day.

Before heading back to the boat, I stopped for a lemon granita and took in the island one last time.

After the full day in Capri, Sunday was a welcome change of pace.

That morning, I received an unexpected text from Shane. His tour van was passing through Positano, and he wanted to meet up. We grabbed breakfast at Collina Bakery, where I ordered a pistachio croissant and Italian hot chocolate. It was my first pistachio croissant, and it rocked my world. Afterward, we wandered down toward the beach, passing the colorful buildings, little shops and restaurants tucked along Positano’s narrow streets. Shane got to take in the views before rejoining his group about 30 minutes later.

I spent the afternoon exploring on my own, climbing stairways and following winding streets that seemed to reveal another beautiful view around every turn. Lemon trees heavy with fruit caught my eye, and the colorful hillside homes made even an ordinary walk feel like a photo opportunity.

That evening, I ordered pizza, settled into my room and watched my Minnesota Vikings on my phone. Even in paradise, being nearly 5,000 miles from home couldn’t keep me from watching my Vikes.

I woke up on my birthday feeling grateful, blessed and at peace. After everything it took to make this trip happen, I was exactly where I wanted to be, celebrating another year of life on the Amalfi Coast.

The weather had other plans. Rain and wind forced me to cancel the private boat excursion I’d planned.

Curious about what rain on a birthday might symbolize, I came across interpretations of renewal, cleansing and new beginnings. Those interpretations resonated with me. I had traveled all this way to slow down, reconnect with myself and gain a renewed perspective.

That evening, sitting at Orama Bistro in Positano, overlooking the coastline, it all hit me. I felt emotional thinking about how far I’d come and how fortunate I was to be there.

The following morning, I was up early again for one of the experiences I had most anticipated: hiking the Path of the Gods.

A guided excursion cost €296 (about $328), so I decided to make the journey on my own. After researching the route from Positano through Amalfi to Bomerano, where the trail begins, a €10 bus pass was all I needed. I saved nearly €286.

The buses wound along narrow roads carved into the cliffs, navigating sharp turns and two-way traffic. I spent some time exploring Amalfi during my layover before continuing to Bomerano.

Then came the hike.

The Path of the Gods lived up to its name, with breathtaking views of the coastline, mountains and Mediterranean.

When I reached Nocelle, I could have taken a bus back to Positano. Instead, I decided to walk the rest of the way. Halfway through, my legs were shaking and I was exhausted.

But I was also proud of myself.

Afterward, I stopped for lunch at La Giallo Bistro, overlooking the coastline. Sitting there, I felt fortunate to have traveled thousands of miles on my own and challenged myself to do something I might not otherwise have attempted.

Wednesday morning, I boarded the ferry from Positano to Salerno, bringing five days on the Amalfi Coast to a close.

From Salerno, I boarded a high-speed train to Rome, watching the Italian countryside pass by at nearly 200 miles per hour.

I arrived in Rome shortly before 4 p.m. My first stop was the Colosseum. Seeing it in person for the first time, I was struck by its scale and the history surrounding it.

That evening, I enjoyed my final dinner in Italy at the renowned La Carbonara. Afterward, I walked to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps before making my way to Gregory’s Jazz Club, a recommendation from my friend Justice.

Scenes from my tour of Italy.

The band played a set, followed by a jam session that kept me there until midnight.

A few hours later, I was back at the train station, heading to the airport. But not before one last pistachio croissant.

I had traveled nearly 5,000 miles, spent nine days exploring Italy and celebrated another year of life along the way. I didn’t just visit Italy. I experienced it.

When I think about everything it took to make this trip happen, and the decision to go despite the financial trade-offs, one thing keeps coming back to me:

It’s not that I can’t afford it. I can’t afford not to.